What is palmitoyl?

The term palmitoyl refers to a lipid group derived from palmitic acid, used as a molecular vector or modifier in cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients. Conjugating molecules with palmitoyl (for example, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide) significantly enhances their lipophilicity, facilitating skin penetration and increasing their stability and efficacy.

Use of palmitoyl in aesthetic medicine

In aesthetic medicine, palmitoyl is used strategically to improve the structure and appearance of the skin at a deep level, especially in anti-aging and regenerative treatments. Its main advantage is that, being lipophilic, it enhances the penetration of peptides and other bioactive ingredients into the dermal layers, where they can exert their effects most effectively.

Among the most relevant applications are:

• Stimulation of neocollagenesis: palmitoyl peptides act as signals that activate fibroblasts, inducing them to produce collagen and elastin. This reinforces the extracellular matrix, improves dermal density, and increases skin firmness, resulting in a visible reduction of sagging and facial contour loss.
• Reduction of wrinkles and fine lines: thanks to their ability to strengthen dermal cohesion and increase structural protein production, palmitoyl actives help smooth fine lines and wrinkles. This is especially effective in combination treatments with laser, radiofrequency, or microneedling, where dermal regeneration is accelerated.
• Improvement of skin texture and radiance: by optimizing dermal regeneration, palmitoyl-containing products even out the skin surface, enhance elasticity, and increase radiance, giving a younger, healthier appearance.
• Enhancement of combined treatments: in aesthetic protocols, palmitoyl is frequently combined with antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, or growth factors, increasing the bioavailability and effectiveness of active ingredients. This allows topical treatments, mesotherapy, or electroporation to achieve more visible and lasting results.
• Prevention of premature aging: its action on the extracellular matrix and cellular signaling helps maintain dermal integrity against environmental stress, such as UV radiation or pollution, helping to prevent photoaging and early loss of elasticity.

In cosmetics, palmitoyl is found in high-performance products due to its ability to minimize wrinkles and fine lines, strengthen the extracellular matrix, promoting firmer and more elastic skin, and increase the bioavailability of active ingredients such as peptides, vitamins, or antioxidants.

Its combination with other actives, such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or ergothioneine, enables the development of synergistic formulas that provide visible and lasting benefits to the skin.

Functions of palmitoyl

Palmitoyl mainly acts as a functional carrier, allowing peptides, antioxidants, or other actives to reach the deeper layers of the epidermis and dermis efficiently. In addition, certain palmitoyl-peptides mimic the action of structural and regulatory skin proteins, such as collagen, elastin, and growth factors, activating cellular pathways that promote skin regeneration and firmness.

• Stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis: palmitoyl peptides can act as signals that induce fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, improving skin density and elasticity.
• Reduction of wrinkles and fine lines: by reinforcing the extracellular matrix and optimizing dermal cohesion, palmitoyl actives contribute to a firmer and more uniform facial contour.
• Improvement of penetration and efficacy of other actives: conjugation with palmitoyl increases the lipid affinity of hydrophilic molecules, facilitating their transport to deeper layers of the skin.

Antioxidant

Electroporation

Firmness