What is Aesculus hippocastanum?

In the vast catalogue of nature, few species have earned such a solid place in aesthetic medicine as Aesculus hippocastanum, commonly known as horse chestnut. This majestic tree, native to the Balkans, not only enhances landscapes with its impressive stature and white-and-pink blossoms, but has also given medicine one of the most valued natural substances for its effect on circulation, the skin, and connective tissues.

Origin of horse chestnut

The medicinal use of horse chestnut dates back to the 17th century, when the physician and botanist Pietro Andrea Mattioli first described it in Europe. Although it was initially used to treat respiratory problems in horses (hence the name “hippocastanum”), it was soon discovered that its seeds, bark, and flowers contained powerful active principles with an effect on the venous and lymphatic systems.

With the development of pharmacognosy in the 19th century, Aesculus hippocastanum extracts began to be studied systematically. Researchers identified its main bioactive compound: escin (or aescin), a mixture of triterpenic saponins responsible for its venotonic, anti-inflammatory, and capillary-protective effects. Since then, horse chestnut has become one of the most valuable natural ingredients in the formulation of cosmetics, body creams, and aesthetic treatments aimed at improving microcirculation and reducing local inflammation.

Composition of Aesculus hippocastanum

The extract of Aesculus hippocastanum contains a symphony of active compounds:

• Escin: improves venous tone, reduces capillary permeability, and prevents edema.
• Flavonoids: natural antioxidants that combat free radicals.
• Tannins: with an astringent effect, useful for reinforcing skin firmness.
• Coumarins and proanthocyanidins: which promote oxygenation and cellular regeneration.

The most relevant mechanism of escin is its ability to strengthen the walls of blood vessels and improve skin microcirculation, reducing the leakage of fluids into the interstitial tissue. Clinically, this action translates into a decrease in edema, redness, couperose, and the sensation of heaviness or swelling, both on the face and the legs.

Use in aesthetic medicine

In traditional medicine, horse chestnut was used to treat varicose veins, hemorrhoids, and edema. Today, aesthetic dermatology has expanded its spectrum, taking advantage of its antiedematous, firming, and decongestant properties in multiple treatments:

• Body treatments for circulation and fluid retention: Aesculus hippocastanum extract is commonly found in anti-cellulite creams, draining gels, and products for tired legs, where it improves venous return and promotes the elimination of retained fluids.
• Facial treatments for sensitive and couperose-prone skin: its ability to strengthen capillaries and reduce inflammation makes it an ideal active ingredient in serums or masks formulated for reactive skin, prone to rosacea or diffuse redness.
• Post-aesthetic treatments: in aesthetic medicine, escin is used to promote skin recovery after invasive or semi-invasive procedures such as mesotherapy, radiofrequency, fillers, or laser. Its decongestant action helps reduce inflammation and bruising, accelerating the process of tissue regeneration.
• Firming and anti-aging treatments: by improving oxygenation and blood flow in the dermis, it helps stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, resulting in firmer, more toned, and radiant skin.

Dermatological and aesthetic benefits

The inclusion of Aesculus hippocastanum in high-end cosmetic formulations is due to its versatility and clinically proven efficacy. Its benefits for the skin can be summarized as follows:

1. Venotonic and decongestant effect: reduces facial and body swelling, relieves heaviness, and diminishes fatigue.
2. Antioxidant action: neutralizes free radicals responsible for premature skin aging.
3. Capillary barrier reinforcement: protects capillaries from rupture and minimizes the appearance of telangiectasias.
4. Anti-inflammatory effect: soothes irritation and redness, ideal for sensitive skin.
5. Firming and revitalizing action: enhances skin tone and improves texture.

In advanced aesthetics, Aesculus hippocastanum extract is considered an essential adjuvant to optimize results in lymphatic drainage, pressotherapy, facial and body radiofrequency, and comprehensive body remodeling programs.

Forms of use and recommendations

Aesculus hippocastanum can be applied in different forms: topically (the most common), such as creams, gels, masks, or serums with standardized escin extract (0.5% to 2%); orally, through standardized capsules or tablets—always under medical supervision, especially in cases of venous or lymphatic insufficiency; or for professional use in aesthetic clinics, in concentrated products that can be combined with techniques such as virtual mesotherapy or iontophoresis to enhance the penetration of the active ingredient.

When applied with knowledge and precision, horse chestnut not only improves skin circulation and appearance but also acts as a true biological shield against the signs of aging, bringing luminosity, firmness, and overall well-being. In short, a botanical classic that has successfully reinvented itself in the service of modern aesthetics.

Antioxidant

Firmness

Free radicals